Shiraz

Shiraz's roots reach back to the Paleolithic era. It flourished as the Zand dynasty's capital in the 18th century under Karim Khan, who built the Vakil Complex — a citadel, bazaar, bathhouse and mosque — that still anchors the city's historic core. The city takes its nickname "City of Love and Literature" from Hafez and Saadi, both buried here; many Iranians still use a Divan of Hafez for fortune-telling by opening a page at random.

Nasir al-Mulk Mosque (the Pink Mosque) throws a kaleidoscope of colour across its prayer hall each morning through stained-glass windows — best seen shortly after sunrise. Shah Cheragh's mirrored interiors make it one of Iran's most visually striking shrines. The string of historic Persian gardens — Eram, Delgosha, Afif-Abad and Narenjestan-e Qavam — reflects a six-thousand-year-old gardening tradition; Eram Garden alone holds roughly 3,000 orange trees. The Qajar-era Saraye Moshir caravanserai near Vakil Bazaar showcases 19th-century merchant architecture.

Kalam Polo Shirazi (rice with cabbage and meatballs) and the ubiquitous Shirazi salad of finely diced cucumber, tomato and onion are local staples. Faloodeh — semi-frozen rice-noodle strands in rosewater syrup — is the city's signature dessert, often served with sour cherry or lime. Sharbat-e Sekanjebin, a tangy mint-and-vinegar cordial, is popular in summer. Shiraz is also a centre for hand-blown glasswork and felted alabaster crafts, with sizeable Christian and Jewish communities reflecting a long tradition of religious diversity.

Persepolis and Pasargadae, roughly one hour's drive away, preserve the ceremonial heart of the Achaemenid Empire and are best combined in a single day. Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab add Sassanid-era cliff carvings to the same day. Maharloo Lake, south-east of Shiraz, turns a striking shade of pink when salt-loving algae bloom in its shallow waters. Qashqai nomad visits can be arranged in the surrounding mountains — a rare look at felt-making and traditional pastoral life.

Shiraz holds far more than its famous mosque and gardens. The Tomb of Hafez, set in a tranquil garden pavilion, draws Iranians who come to read his verse aloud at dusk — an essential cultural experience. Nearby, the Tomb of Saadi honours Persia's other beloved poet. The Vakil Complex — bazaar, bathhouse and mosque built by the Zand dynasty — anchors the old city with some of Iran's finest 18th-century architecture. Eram Garden, a UNESCO Persian Garden, overflows with cypress and citrus around a Qajar pavilion. The Shah Cheragh Shrine stuns with its mirror-mosaic interior (respectful dress essential), and the Qavam House (Narenjestan) preserves an exquisite Qajar merchant garden-mansion.